Skincare Serenity Secrets

Our world is in urgent need of positive change to help close the gaps in what are often life-threatening inequities in healthcare treatment for people of color. According to medical experts, “many skin conditions, from rashes to Lyme disease to various cancers, manifest differently on dark skin” (1). But, because of the lack of education on melanated skin in the dermatology field, diagnosis and treatment for these skin types are not as effective as those with less melanated skin. For example, in severe cases such as skin cancer, a person of color is less likely to receive the same quality of treatment as a person with fair skin because there is less awareness among dermatologists and patients on how darker skin needs to be treated. Dr. Andrew Alexis at Mount Sinai explained that this lack of awareness can be credited to the fact that “there’s often a lower index of suspicion for skin cancer in patients of color…so these patients may be less likely to get regular, full-body skin exams” and because “the places on the body where skin cancers tend to occur in people of color are often in less sun-exposed, more out-of-the-way areas, which makes detection more difficult” (2). This racial disparity is costing people their lives, which can be seen, for example, in cases of melanoma. Although people with darker skin are less likely to develop melanoma than people with lighter skin, a study published by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention determined that “the relative 5-year melanoma survival rate among non-Hispanic black populations was 66.2%, compared with 90.1% for non-Hispanic white populations” (3). Even though darker skin has more protection from the sun because of the higher concentration of melanin, the widespread uneducation of dermatologists in skin cancer for darker skin is leading to late diagnoses, which is causing a significantly lower survival rate in people of color. The first step to addressing this problem is further educating dermatologists and people of color on the signs of medical problems in their skin, and the risks that could lead to severe diseases if untreated. 

As mentioned before, the lack of racial representation in the skincare field is also problematic. One of the most important steps, if not the most important step, in a skincare routine is using sunscreen. It protects your skin from sun damage, which can lead to “premature skin aging”, or more serious problems, such as “skin cancers and skin precancers” (4). As important as sunscreen is, there are limited products available that are suitable for people of color. There are two types of sunscreens: mineral and chemical. Although both can sufficiently protect skin from harmful UV rays, mineral sunscreens are practically unusable by people of color because of how they are formulated to protect skin. Mineral sunscreens reflect UV rays, whereas chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays. This reflection often creates a white cast on darker skin, which leaves an undesirable purple-ish or gray-ish hue on the skin. People who are affected by this unflattering white cast are often prompted to either switch to a sunscreen that is less suitable for their skin or just end use of sunscreen altogether. This is disadvantageous because mineral sunscreens are generally regarded as superior, because they “offer the most protection” (5) and are more suitable for “someone with sensitive skin” (6). Mineral sunscreens without a white cast are possible to formulate, but the options are extremely limited because very few brands have created them. Mineral sunscreen that works with your skin tone should be just as accessible to people with darker skin as it is to people with lighter skin. This means they need to exist at affordable prices, accessible locations, and with a variety of formulas for all skin types.

It is imperative that the dermatology and skincare fields become more inclusive to provide education and healthcare for all skin types. These fields have both been created with lighter complexions in mind; but by treating all skin types uniquely, more opportunities are opened to create equity for skin health.

References

(1)   Kwong, Emily, et al. “Meet the Dermatologists Advancing Better Care for Skin of Color : Short Wave.” NPR.org, 1 Apr. 2021, www.npr.org/2021/03/31/983051020/meet-the-dermatologists-advancing-better-care-for-skin-of-color.

(2)    Skin Cancer Foundation. “Ask the Expert: Is There a Skin Cancer Crisis in People of Color?” The Skin Cancer Foundation, 5 July 2019, www.skincancer.org/blog/ask-the-expert-is-there-a-skin-cancer-crisis-in-people-of-color/.

(3)   Culp, MaryBeth B., and Natasha Buchanan Lunsford. “Melanoma among Non-Hispanic Black Americans.” Preventing Chronic Disease, vol. 16, June 2019, https://doi.org/10.5888/pcd16.180640.

(4)   Skin Cancer Foundation. “Sunscreen – the Skin Cancer Foundation.” The Skin Cancer Foundation, 2018, www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/sunscreen/.

(5)   Adams, Molly. “Mineral or Chemical Sunscreen: Which Should You Choose?” MD Anderson Cancer Center, 30 June 2022, www.mdanderson.org/cancerwise/is-mineral-sunscreen-better-than-chemical-sunscreen.h00-159540534.html.

(6)   McCallum, Katie. “Mineral vs. Chemical Sunscreen: Does It Matter Which You Choose?” Houston Methodist, 17 May 2022, www.houstonmethodist.org/blog/articles/2022/may/mineral-vs-chemical-sunscreen-does-it-matter-which-you-use/.